Kataragama, the domain of God Skanda (Lord Murugan Katirkaman, Kadirkamam, Subrahmanya, Kandasamy, Kadiradeva, Katiradeva, Katiravel, Kartikeya, and Tarakajith) located in the Deep South of Sri Lanka, adjoining the popular Ruhuna Yala National Park and ancient Sithulpawwa Buddhist Monastery, is a multi-religious sacred city that contains a Buddhist temple, Hindu shrine and Islamic Mosque. Kataragama, one of the Solosmasthana
(Sinhala: 16 principal sites of
Buddhist pilgrimage), features in the history since the era of King Dutugamunu (161-137 BC), the Hero of the Nation. Mahawamsa, the great historical chronicle of Sri Lanka reveals the participation of warriors of Kshatriyas clan from Kataragama on the occasion of the arrival of the Bo sapling of Bodhi Tree, under which Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya (Gaya district of the modern Bihar state of India) was brought to the city of Anuradhapura 2,300 years ago. Sri Lankans are convinced of the existence of God Skanda, the deity of Kataragama and his benevolent nature. Many Sinhala Buddhists of Sri Lanka believe that Kataragama deviyo is one of the four guardian deities of the island nation and Buddhism. Among the virtuous personages who had witnessed the god Skanda, is Buddhist monk Balanagoda Ananda Maitreya. (August 23, 1896 – July 18, 1998) who is believed to have achieved a certain lower plain in enlightenment in line with Buddhism by means of two forms of Buddhist meditation called Samatha meditation and Vipassana meditation.
Distance from Colombo: Kataragama is located 283km from Colombo.
Location
19km inland from Tissamaharama lies the small & remote town of Kataragama. Kataragama is one of most popular & most sacred pilgrimages sites of Sri Lanka. Like Adam's Peak, it attracts Sinhalese Buddhists as well as Hindu Tamils. The adored site is visited by Muslims & Christians too.
Town
Kataragama is a small town with clean, tree lined roads with rows of stalls selling garlands & platters of fruit-coconut, mango watermelon. The city, town & the wide shady roads are developed by the late president-ever industrious workhorse-indomitable R. A. Premadasa.
The best Time to visit
The town is at is best bold, bright & busiest during the Kataragama festival, held around the Kandy Esala Perahera pageant in Kandy - two weeks in July & August.
The Journey
Kataragama is easily visited as a day-trip from Tissamaharama. A night's stay at Kataragama provide the opportunity of enjoying the sight of the puja (ritual offerings) in a leisurely manner, you may also imbibe some of the town's backwater charm & laid-back rural pace.
The Setting
Kataragama town spreads out over a small grid of tranquil, leafy streets. The town is separated by the River Menik Ganga ("Gem River") with Sacred Precinct to the north, an area of beautiful parkland overrun by a grey langurs.
The popular river at Kataragama, Menik Ganga (River of Gems)
A short walk from the car park takes us to popular river Menik Ganga ("River of Gems"). We cross the bridge & then steps lead us down to the river which is quite shallow in places. It's a nice & easy river for a leisurely bath(village style) anytime during the day. The area around the river is very attractive with large trees on the banks providing plenty of shade. Pilgrims enjoy their ritual bath in the middle of the river. We cross the bridge to enter the main temple complex. The 300m wide avenue lined with trees leads us to the Hindu temple.
The legend & The history
According to the legend, victorious King Dutugamunu (161-137 BC) built the original shrine following his series of long battles against the mighty forces of Dravidian invader, Elara, at Anuradhapura. The legend is God Kataragama helped King Dutugamunu's formidable Sinhalese army to cross the River Menik, which would have been an unassailable mighty river a couple of millennium ago. The history is (Mahawamsa) King Dutugamunu's army was commanded by ten mighty warriors, Nandhimitta, Suranimala, Mahasona, Gothaimbara, Theraputtabhaya (formerly a Buddhist monk, he gave up the Buddhist order for the sole purpose of saving the Sinhalese & Buddhism from the marauding Dravidian invaders), Bharana, Velusumana, Khanjadeva, Phussadeva & Labhiyavasaba, all of them of superhuman strength & courage sans Achilles heel. Those ten mighty ambidextrous warriors of great strength & courage were ably assisted by great battle elephants. Foremost in strength, beauty, shape & the qualities of courage & swiftness & of mighty size of body was the royal elephant Kandula, who broke open the mighty door of impregnable Dravidian fortress at Vijithapura (city of victory), Anuradhapura.
The Sacred Pilgrimage Site of The Benevolent God
To Buddhists, this forest sanctuary is where the Buddha planted a sapling of the Sacred Sri Maha Bodhi tree of Anuradhapura, sanctifying the spot. To Hindus, Kataragama is the domain of the Hindu war god Skanda. Both Hindu & Buddhist communities believe that Hindu war god Kataragama (Skanda) has the power to intervene benevolently in their affairs & thousands, convinced of the deity's benign influence, journey, to Kataragama for a puja (offering) at the time of embarking on a new venture. But then again it is said "the god help those who help themselves" you better have the moral courage & will to realize your dreams. Those who have the will would find a way. May god also go with those who toil in the High Noon for a Few Dollars More without the lady-luck of McCanna's Gold. And may the adored, benevolent god have mercy on all those Good, Bad and Ugly too. And may the god bless the good guy who wrote this. Amen!
The Ritual
The ritual traditionally involves a bath in the Menik Ganga (The River of Gems), the wearing of clean white clothes & then a walk of several hundred meters along the wide avenue to the temple, bearing offerings of flowers & fruit. Each supplicant light a coconut, then holding it aloft while saying a prayer, before smashing it on the stony ground, hoping for it to split into two nice halves-auspiciously open-a good omen. It's considered inauspicious if the coconut fails to split on the stone. Offerings are made to the god inside the shrine.
Temple Complex
The first building we'll encounter is the Ul-Khizr that houses the tombs of Muslim saints from Kyrgyzstan & India. It is a beautiful small mosque with coloured tile work & wooden lintels. Next to the Muslim Ul- Khizar is Hindu temple of God Shiva. We continue up the main avenue, passing a string of minor shrines, to reach the main shrine, the Maha Devale. The main courtyard is surrounded by an impressive wall decorated with elephant heads, & is entered through an ornate metal gate. The wall as well as the gate is decorated with peacocks, a symbol of the God Katargama.